I'm always fascinated by exceedingly driven people. Being someone who is the opposite. Great convo, as always.
I'm as equally fascinated by 'wavepool culture', and how it will produce a new crop of surfers who will never know the ocean. As a gnarled, washed up late 40's skateboarder, I find the generation/s of skatepark kids strange in that they never seem to desire to find the same things as we did (back in the day) engaging and interesting. For me, the streets is where that action is. Chavs, rough surfaces, imperfect run ups, cars, cold, etc Similarly, I'd estimate that a tiny percentage of indoor climbers have ever felt the cold hard rock with their fingers. The know only plastic. The wave pool generation, rightly or wrongly, might not know how to deal with currents, hefty onshore winds, tide fluctuations, imperfect waves etc, if they never venture into the ocean proper.
Thanks Marc. You raise an interesting point about wave pools, and that was certainly the main issue people had with them at the beginning. Now they’re here I’m not so sure if that’s how it has actually panned out. This is completely anecdotal obviously, but most people I know just see both experiences as different yet complementary.
Great listen. Thanks both of you. The bit I was most surprised by was whether he’d do it all again...stroke included. Wow. My dad died of a sudden stroke a few years ago and it’s been a topic of curiosity on a lot of levels since, so that got me thinking.
Anyway, massive props on hitting the big 200! You’re right to celebrate - look what you’ve built. I got hooked after listening to Sian Leigh back in ep55 and haven’t put it down since. It’s been a huge source of stability and curiosity through the intervening years and their ups and downs. So thank you Matt, nice one 👍🏼
I'm always fascinated by exceedingly driven people. Being someone who is the opposite. Great convo, as always.
I'm as equally fascinated by 'wavepool culture', and how it will produce a new crop of surfers who will never know the ocean. As a gnarled, washed up late 40's skateboarder, I find the generation/s of skatepark kids strange in that they never seem to desire to find the same things as we did (back in the day) engaging and interesting. For me, the streets is where that action is. Chavs, rough surfaces, imperfect run ups, cars, cold, etc Similarly, I'd estimate that a tiny percentage of indoor climbers have ever felt the cold hard rock with their fingers. The know only plastic. The wave pool generation, rightly or wrongly, might not know how to deal with currents, hefty onshore winds, tide fluctuations, imperfect waves etc, if they never venture into the ocean proper.
Thanks Marc. You raise an interesting point about wave pools, and that was certainly the main issue people had with them at the beginning. Now they’re here I’m not so sure if that’s how it has actually panned out. This is completely anecdotal obviously, but most people I know just see both experiences as different yet complementary.
Great listen. Thanks both of you. The bit I was most surprised by was whether he’d do it all again...stroke included. Wow. My dad died of a sudden stroke a few years ago and it’s been a topic of curiosity on a lot of levels since, so that got me thinking.
Anyway, massive props on hitting the big 200! You’re right to celebrate - look what you’ve built. I got hooked after listening to Sian Leigh back in ep55 and haven’t put it down since. It’s been a huge source of stability and curiosity through the intervening years and their ups and downs. So thank you Matt, nice one 👍🏼
Thanks Murray. That answer also kinda stopped me in my tracks. Big thanks for all the support over the years 👊