Ben Mondy: 4 Things I Learned Writing My New Surf Book
The Aussie surf hack par excellence on lessons learned while compiling his latest tome. Plus! I have some copies up for grabs, exclusively for paid subscribers.
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I go way back with my old cobber Ben Mondy, one of my closest pals and one of surf journalism’s essential and most original voices. With most surf outlets vanishing by the month, I recently persuaded Mondog to set up on Substack, where he is currently banging out the best, most informative surf writing on here (oh, and Rod Cunthorpe).
Sign up below if you haven’t yet.
Ben has also been hard at work putting together his latest opus, the 256-page, coffee table-worrying tome that is his new Breitling Book of Surfing, released worldwide on Tuesday April 2nd.
The schtick? Here’s Ben:
‘The book examines various surf communities around the world, as seen through the prism of an eclectic mix of surfers. I had good access to heavy hitters like Kelly Slater, Steph Gilmore, Mikey February, Cotty and Jeremy Flores.
However, I probably enjoyed writing the less-known stories more: people like Greece’s Effie Vrakas, Sweden’s Freddie Meadows, and Italy’s Roberto D’Amico, to name a few. The imagery is amazing, and there’s been serious coin thrown at the art direction and the production. Breitling called it “as much an in-depth travelogue as it is a beautiful photography book.” And who I am to argue?’
Click here to snag your own copy. Or, if you’re a paid subscriber, DM me using the button below to tell me why you should win one of the two free copies Mondy and the Breitling team have kindly donated to celebrate the launch.
In the meantime, Mondy has kindly shared four things he’s learned from the process of pulling this monster together. Read on for more…
1. The Best Surfers Don’t Always Have The Best Stories
Probably a rather obvious statement. But as much as I loved digging into Kelly’s life, or Steph Gilmore’s state of mind (“I just look at my dad. He surfs every day and he’s almost 70. I’m constantly inspired by his passion for being active and living a life that has surfing and the ocean at the heart of it. That’s what I call real success.”), it was unravelling relatively unknown surf stories that I most enjoyed.
Like Sweden’s Freddie Meadows camping in the Baltic Sea for six weeks, alone, on the hunt for a wave that may or may not break. Or Paul Duvignau’s (above), who’s DIY ethos and dedication to La Nord makes him surfing’s renaissance man. Or how about Brazilian Ciao Vaz, surely the only SUP World Champ, Nazare charger AND famous soap actor. Of course, every surfer has a story. Turn out that some are better than others.
2. Kelly’s Still Got It, Whatever It is
All that said….
I’ve been lucky enough to interview Kelly Slater more than half a dozen times in the last 25 years. I’ve also generally ‘been around’ him at events and free surfs, and have watched him operate at close quarters, floating around like a tiny bit of space dust in his stellar orbit. I don’t always see eye-to-eye on his social media output, and worry his ongoing non-retirement may affect his legacy.
And yet, when Kelly stares at you with those emerald eyes (swoon), and talks at length about surfing, what it means to him and why he’s still do driven, it does feel like an incredible privilege.
“I remember being in the first grade and saying to myself; 'I think I'm a surfer.' I felt I was kind of part of this tribe,” he told me. “I’d always been a bit of an outsider, but then I was inside this thing. And I still am.”
Hopefully, this chapter conveys the eternal lure of the GOAT.
3. Origin Stories Matter
An ongoing highlight for me was uncovering the frequently hilarious origin tales at the root of some of your favourite pros’ surfing addictions. Take Andrew ‘Cotty’ Cotton, who’s parents signed him up for his local Croyde Boardriders in one last attempt to stave off his hyperactivity after swimming and lifesaving had failed.
Then there’s the mental image of a 12 year-old Freddie Meadows thrashing around in the Baltic while wearing two wetsuits, dishwashing gloves, and a beanie under a swimming hat, while attempting to master a windsurf he’d ‘borrowed’ from under a neighbour’s house.
My favourite by miles, though, was undoubtedly Italian Roby D’Amico, who would sit watching the flat summer Mediterranean Sea at the front of his house, while waiting for the daily 7pm ferry from Sardinia to Fiumicino. Its huge wake would send waves toward the rocky shore, giving this frothing grom the chance to ride one wave - or two if he was lucky.
He may have been the only surfer on the only rideable waves for hundreds of miles. And the only one who learned to surf with a timetable.
4. Serious People In Surfing Can Be A Good Thing
Look, I've been around long enough to know the endgame of this book is to sell expensive timepieces. And of course, on paper, a luxury Swiss watch brand peddling and meddling in surf culture should be a cause for alarm.
And yet, having worked closely with some of the clowns who have run ‘core’ surf publishers over the years, I feel qualified to say that having serious people with a clear message; proper, accountable budgets, and a genuine sense of curiosity for this thing called surfing was a breath of fresh air.
Even better, by concentrating on community; and by examining surfers from a wide breadth of ages, backgrounds and experiences; there is, hopefully, a sense of authenticity that pervades the book.
Mind you, I would say that, wouldn’t I?
Plus - welcome to HKC Discount Club to my pals at Finisterre! Yep, my legendary Cornish pals are offering a 10% discount for all LS readers and listeners. Just use Finisterre discount code LOOKINGSIDEWAYS at checkout to save 10% on your purchase 😎
To check out the growing list of HKC Club partners, click here. And if any other brands want to get involved, noise me up and let’s talk…